Last trip down at PDLC for our Sunday wine event.
We also went to Gare St Roch to print out our tickets to Narbonne, and also for the TGV for Paris this week. Ordering tickets online via the Trainline app is very easy, we've used it many times now in France and prices are always in Canadian so you know exactly what you will get charged. We could show the tickets on the phone but, call me old fashioned, but I like paper backup too, just in case the iphone has a problem.
It's always our practice to check out a station layout before we actually take the train, there's usually some little quirk to trip you up when you’re rushing to catch your train.
In Montpellier there are multiple ways to get to the tracks that are all directly below the station so you can't actually see any platforms or trains Some tracks have escalators and/or ekevators and/or steps. But If you're in a hurry You need to know where to go with your suitcases. They have published a chart, with helpful coloured flow lines marked on the floor that break off to guide you to the respective entrance.
Train platforms are generally only announced 10-15 minutes before departure so you have to watch the boards, then run. For a tgv, there's always quite a herd of runners pulling cases and children behind them.
It’s a beautiful design. Spacious.
Monday May 30 Narbonne
Early morning start for Nabonne, set the alarm for 5.30. So, Yesterday we tested out the station for quirks, today we tested out the tram.
Why? today, major construction work started on the trams with the first stage right in from of Gare Roch so all trams now stop at PDLC and we had to walk down one tram stop to the station. A bit of confusion as people were caught off guard. The tram platform at PDLC was crowded so we decided to Uber on Wednesday for our Paris train rather than struggling with tram confusion and then walking down a few blocks to the station with our suitcases
On platform E
Our train just about to stop
Narbonne station looks strangely like Nice station! Same colour, architecture, roof, platform design.
We walked through a park to get to the centre
Beautiful fin de siècle architecture
Notice how they shaped the new build balconies to match the historic buildings shape.
Because it was a Monday, most, though not all stores and restaurants, were closed. However here are two restaurant owners who have returned from the market with fresh food for the day. (How do I know..they opened up a restaurant door as we walked by!. No frozen, pre-prepared, heat and serve, Sysco food deliveries down this street)
First glimpse of the palais des archevêques. (Archbishops)
Walking past it to get to the cathedrale
First glimpse of the cathedrale, massive
Gargoyles! I must research the tradition of stone monster rain downspouts.
View of the cathedrale from the archevêque garden
When you first walk in you're overawed by the size, and height of the ceilings
Yiu get an impression of the height by looking at the size of the people below.
Massive organ case
More of these creatures
Courtyard of the palais
Up to the main quarters now a gallery
always love Brugel
I found this amusing. A wood painted panel from a cupboard showing the times of the couriers arrivals, from around 1750. Note, no 24 hour clock back then.
One of the archevêques. Pride and money appears to be a requirement for the job back then.
The tower. (Or donjon in French) More photos later, when we actually climb 40 metres to the top.
Shops on a bridge. More photos later.
Very calm peaceful scene along the canal.
And the highlight, for me! Located right in front of the palais...An actual exposed section of the 200 year old via domitia that you've heard me go on and on about! You can walk on it, dance on it, walk your dog around it, let your kids play on it. Warning, you'll see more pics of this...
From the via domitia looking up to the palais.
And this straight road, rue droite, was built right over over the via. During medieval times they liked to build roads, squares and churches over Roman structures. The Roman's had generally solved all the geophysical engineering problems so why not build on their infrastructure.
For all your truffle needs. Truffle flavoured chips to nibble while watching Netflix?
Lunch in a crepe restaurant along the canal. We ate late, so just the owners, cook, server having a coffe and cigarette after their shift.
The cours Mirabeau along the canal. We've been to the other more famous cours Mirabeau in the centre of Aix-en-province
The tourist map told us this pedestrian bridge was the best location for a selfie but since Lynda and i don't do selfies on principle, here's an unobstructed view of the shopping bridge and the towers.
Could these children playing here, be the direct descendants of the children of locals, or Roman soldiers or merchants from 2000 years ago?
Now we're on the medieval bridge with the shops. As if the weight of buildings wasn't enough they've added a marble paving.
We stumbled on this quiet little square and returned later for a pichet of rose while waiting for the train.
A very quiet residential square. Note the new build fits with the old build.
A lock system
Beautiful architecture
And now we go to the tower of the palais .. a really high tower, 140 steps round and around...and around. There's a perennial joke about museums and galleries - "exit via the gift shop" , in this case we entered the tower via the gift shop.
I captured an image of a ghost of a long dead soldier from the past ... at least it looks like all the photos of ghosts that I've seen in magazines.
View ftom the top...spectacular
As you look at these photos, note a few things... the buildings are mostly all well maintained, clean, roofs in good repair. Every roof exactly the same. All the building designs complimentary. That doesn't happen by chance. See if you can see anything like a single family dwelling. You can’t. Even if you look to the far edges. And, no urban sprawl.
And it was foresight for them to build towers back then in anticipation of cellular service needs. "Not in my backyard" is a recent thing. Back then, people were happy to have towers in their backyard. Great protection.
Narbonne station. Again, like Nice station but without the large space in front.
Our train back, old style engine (JV, I'll leave the technical description up to you!) arrived 5 minutes late, intercity from Bordeaux to marseille, with reserved seating. And confortable and cool, after a long day of walking and climbing towers , (and after a bottle of cider and a pichet of wine)
Packing. Supper at C and H, apéros, quiche, cheeses and dessert.
No photos of unpacked suitcases.
June 1 Off to Paris
Another Early morning
Said goodbye to our wonderful host and took an Uber to Gare St Roch. A very quiet morning in the station Paul's was empty. We got a comfortable booth and had coffee and croissants.
Full TGV train, got to Gare de Lyon, ordered the Uber to take us to the apartment. Outside, The station was bedlam, a protest going on, ambulances pulling up,for sick, psssengers, taxis, crowds, shut we made it.
Our host had left us fruits cookies, breakfast items and jam, and chocolate maybe because we're a repeat customer. We stayed here for our first (very cold!) weekend back at the beginning of April
What a difference 2 months make! Trees with leaves and flowers in bloom.
Walked around a large park nearby called Montsouris, that was designed and created as part of Haussmann's grand architectural design for Paris. Lots of locals enjoying the sun. Returned to a restaurant around the corner from the apartment that we had enjoyed on our first visit.
June 1. Moving day. Here's a bed going up to the top floor apartment.
More street art in the neighbourhood
À cobblestone street just like ours.
Classic Haussmann designed building.
Tree planted when the park was built, 180 years ago
Here's the trunk
Another exceptionally tall tree
This man was recording the ladies memoirs. Very poignant moment even though we didn’t catch a word, but it’s nice to just witness the passing down of stories and history.
New build in the Haussmann style
Another little neighbourhood oasis of quiet.
Butcher and fish shop on the same corner.
Not easy to see, but this was a luthier making violins and cellos. The wood panels in the window are outlined with instruments, he was working inside
An artist starting a mural on our street
Walking down to our apartment
Thursday June 4 Paris
A bit of a panic this morning, Lynda and I both woke with a definite sore throat. Hmm. After googling covid symptoms on the BC Health, and Mayo clinic site snd going through the checklists it didn't look like it was covid, we had no headache, fever, running noses, breathing. We figured we could find toilet paper at the local monoprix if needed. (Has anyone written a paper on that whole toilet paper mass hysteria phenomenon? I’d love to read it. )
But we took a slow morning and then decided we were ok to do a last trip into Paris and visit Montmartre as we had planned.
Wore masks on the metro even though they are no longer mandatory, we didn't want to spread what ever it was we had. A good percentage of riders young and old were also masked
Don't ever take this metro stop . It's 140 steps up from the platform to the exit
And more steps
And even more steps. There is a funicular railway to get you up to the base of Sacré Coeur church
Who wouldn't want to stop fir a Guinness half way up? It's good for you, you know. (That’s an old slogan plastered on billboards from my childhood..Guinness is good for you )
And and then even more steps to sacré cœur
Got on the metro to go to our favourite neighbourhood street , rue Mouffetard
Buskers were performing in the square so we stopped for a glass of wine to listen.
Chimneys!
And then wandered down Mouffetard to a restaurant where Lynda likes the cassolette with potatoes snd cheese and ham
In our part of the world, if there's an old building we pull it down and put up a glass tower. In France, they do what they can to preserve heritage. Here, they've gutted the building but saved the facade. We saw a number of renovations like this as we walked around. Development Decisions made by politicians tend to stick around whether they’re good or bad. Will future generations walk around downtown Toronto or Vancouver and say..”look at that really interesting and beautiful glass tower that they built 100 years ago. Isn’t it neat how they made it look just like all the others…”
.
Friday June 5
Up at 4.30am, Uber at 5.30, empty streets and fast moving autoroute to CDG so we were at the airport at 6.15. Usual party game to: print boarding pass, print luggage tags, get agent to assist with how to put them in luggage, wait to dump luggage yourself, get agent to help figure out how to do that, go to border control line up, then go to security line up, take off belts, watches, iPads.
Magically, from walking in the revolving door, to getting to the prêt à manger for coffee and croissants the elapsed time was just an hour.
Flight boarded right on time, orderly . Reasonable flight given its 10 hours, food, wine and a snack. Cute baby next to us, No, really..He was good.
In YVR, we were through border check, and luggage in hand, in about 1 hour after landing. Called for Uber to Twassasen ferry. YVR have it organized, a special section to wait for ride share, just like taxis. So the competing drivers don’t fight each other.
The car was a Tesla . First thing we had to learn was how to open the door. The very courteous driver had just taken possession 3 days earlier so was happy to show us all the features. Next car at maybe a Tesla!
Bit of a wait for the 3.15, ferry ride was, well. just like any other. Martin picked us up, we'd been up 22 hours by the time we arrived home . And, Martin and Juni coached me through doing a covid test with the rapid test kit, and I'm negative and next morning i did it again and lynda also wanted to be part of the fun of sticking things in your nose and throat and negative so, just a bad cold as we suspected .
CDG, quiet, spacious (because we were 4 hours early 😊, ) didn’t stay that way..
BC Ferries, bit of sun, bit of rain, cloud, fog, cool, all the greatest island features in one sailing
Negative!
And these photos refused to post where I wanted them to,…they tagged out of date sequence
Basketball court under a metro line. Build your parks where you can
Rue mouffetard
View from restaurant
It can take a dish of good, homemade food to really feel at home again. Thank you for all the photos! William
ReplyDeleteThanks William!
DeleteExtremely, amazingly awesome final chapter!
ReplyDeleteMerci!
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